It's not exhaustive, it's not a guide. It's just places I like going. If you're wondering where X,Y, or Z is, I probably haven't been there and I also see little point in putting negative stuff out there about places that are - in the main - essentially people's livelihoods in Whitstable.
Eating Out
The Sportsman
Oh come on, you knew this one already didn't you? It's probably why you're coming down. I discovered Whitstable through a visit to the Sportsman, so thank you to them for finding me a new home. If you're coming to Whitstable on a whim there's a 99.9% chance it's probably booked for this week or weekend. Or quite possibly the next twelve weeks. But if you're reading this well in advance of a trip, just treat yourself. Let's just say that the tasting menu (remember to mention this when you book but if you don't there's an almost as good daily shorter tasting menu) is my favourite eating out occasion in the UK.
Harbour Street Tapas
The default answer from me when I'm asked where to go if people are popping down for the day or weekend. Owner Lee Murray has the excellent Murray's Stores in the Goods Shed and also has a cracker here. Hake fillet, leeks, cockle and saffron sauce or beetroot, blood orange, ajo blanco and dill. Crab and spring onion tortilla, chicken thighs with a wicked romesco sauce, lamb chops, and superb smoked anchovies with aioli on toast and pan con tomate with sourdough from Grain and Hearth bakery in Whitstable (see below). I could go on. Get some olives as you sit down, you won't regret that move.
Samphire
Yes it's a glaring cliche but like the Sportsman I admire their use of local stuff. Once had a rabbit tagliatelle as a starter there that was so good I went back and asked if they could do a main sized portion: which they did with aplomb. Head Chef Mark O'Brien is knocking out some remarkably good dishes here - a Sunday roast recently is as good as I've had anywhere.
Farm and Harper
I've had some pasta at the bar, an excellent plaice "fish dog", fish tacos and a great chickpea and tomato salad, a vibrant Asian chicken bun with peanut sauce and sausage sandwiches at breakfast. Keep an eye out for occasional evening openings - where I've had pork loin with romesco and a pearlescent slab of hake with brown shrimps and capers on the ever-changing evening menu. Phil the chef worked at the Lanesborough Hotel in the past and seems to effortlessly juggle multiple orders when I sit at the bar.
Roly Smokes
I particularly like Roly Smokes of the takeaway options at the harbour: he used to be at the Old Kent Market in Margate but moved to this Whitstable pitch about 18 months ago now. Has done some competition BBQing in his time and typically has smoked lamb, pork belly as well as tumescent German sausages from the excellent Sausage Man in Lewisham. I particularly like his chicken thighs with celeriac slaw in a bap.
Oh come on, you knew this one already didn't you? It's probably why you're coming down. I discovered Whitstable through a visit to the Sportsman, so thank you to them for finding me a new home. If you're coming to Whitstable on a whim there's a 99.9% chance it's probably booked for this week or weekend. Or quite possibly the next twelve weeks. But if you're reading this well in advance of a trip, just treat yourself. Let's just say that the tasting menu (remember to mention this when you book but if you don't there's an almost as good daily shorter tasting menu) is my favourite eating out occasion in the UK.
The default answer from me when I'm asked where to go if people are popping down for the day or weekend. Owner Lee Murray has the excellent Murray's Stores in the Goods Shed and also has a cracker here. Hake fillet, leeks, cockle and saffron sauce or beetroot, blood orange, ajo blanco and dill. Crab and spring onion tortilla, chicken thighs with a wicked romesco sauce, lamb chops, and superb smoked anchovies with aioli on toast and pan con tomate with sourdough from Grain and Hearth bakery in Whitstable (see below). I could go on. Get some olives as you sit down, you won't regret that move.
Samphire
Yes it's a glaring cliche but like the Sportsman I admire their use of local stuff. Once had a rabbit tagliatelle as a starter there that was so good I went back and asked if they could do a main sized portion: which they did with aplomb. Head Chef Mark O'Brien is knocking out some remarkably good dishes here - a Sunday roast recently is as good as I've had anywhere.
Wheelers Oyster Bar
I've only sat at the bar here a couple of times and enjoyed their "tapas" plate, a perfectly cooked piece of skate with brown butter and prawn dumplings in a terrific dashi broth and during lockdown they've been knocking it out of the park with their weekly menu including lobster and prawn spaghetti and a superb paella. I particularly like their fishcakes - both salmon and crab are excellent, as it their smoked salmon and horseradish pâté. I still think you can go in there with any shaped pie dish and they'll fill it with fish pie for you to pop in the oven at home. How good is that? The link to their website is above but their Instagram feed us well-updated with their ever-changing weekly menus.
I've only sat at the bar here a couple of times and enjoyed their "tapas" plate, a perfectly cooked piece of skate with brown butter and prawn dumplings in a terrific dashi broth and during lockdown they've been knocking it out of the park with their weekly menu including lobster and prawn spaghetti and a superb paella. I particularly like their fishcakes - both salmon and crab are excellent, as it their smoked salmon and horseradish pâté. I still think you can go in there with any shaped pie dish and they'll fill it with fish pie for you to pop in the oven at home. How good is that? The link to their website is above but their Instagram feed us well-updated with their ever-changing weekly menus.
David Brown at The Old Coal Yard
David used to own the social hub that was the Deli on Harbour Street, hugely popular with locals. Since down-scaling he has a little black hut in a retail park on Belmont Road that stands out distinctively from all the caravans surrounding it. He even got reviewed by Marina O'Loughlin in the The Times over the summer of 2020. Open 9-3 Tue-Sat, with a food market every other Saturday that includes - currently - a baker/cake-maker and fresh veg. Another well thought-of Kent chef once said to me he loved David's food because it's "good food without fuss". Hear, hear. Lamb stews, paella, chorizo and bean stew, soups galore (his pea and ham is the best I've had) focaccia, scotch eggs, sausage rolls, quiches, the Deli Burger and fish finger sandwiches.
David used to own the social hub that was the Deli on Harbour Street, hugely popular with locals. Since down-scaling he has a little black hut in a retail park on Belmont Road that stands out distinctively from all the caravans surrounding it. He even got reviewed by Marina O'Loughlin in the The Times over the summer of 2020. Open 9-3 Tue-Sat, with a food market every other Saturday that includes - currently - a baker/cake-maker and fresh veg. Another well thought-of Kent chef once said to me he loved David's food because it's "good food without fuss". Hear, hear. Lamb stews, paella, chorizo and bean stew, soups galore (his pea and ham is the best I've had) focaccia, scotch eggs, sausage rolls, quiches, the Deli Burger and fish finger sandwiches.
I've had some pasta at the bar, an excellent plaice "fish dog", fish tacos and a great chickpea and tomato salad, a vibrant Asian chicken bun with peanut sauce and sausage sandwiches at breakfast. Keep an eye out for occasional evening openings - where I've had pork loin with romesco and a pearlescent slab of hake with brown shrimps and capers on the ever-changing evening menu. Phil the chef worked at the Lanesborough Hotel in the past and seems to effortlessly juggle multiple orders when I sit at the bar.
Further up in Tankerton is another tapas-style option that I've criminally underused since I've been in Whitstable and must rectify this. Saved from post-pandemic closure by a remarkable crowd-funding effort that means she's still alive! Last visit a few months ago revealed some magnificent mutton and feta koftas, amongst other things.
Castellum Pizza
Finally some excellent pizza in Whitstable! The owners run an Italian importing company so you can be sure that what goes on top of your pizza is going to be pretty authentic - and the bases that the toppings go on are excellent sourdough ones.
Finally some excellent pizza in Whitstable! The owners run an Italian importing company so you can be sure that what goes on top of your pizza is going to be pretty authentic - and the bases that the toppings go on are excellent sourdough ones.
There are two places that are open pretty much every day, aforementioned Samphire and this stalwart (open for nearly 30 years now - beat that!) of Harbour Street with its hand-written menu outside. I've had a great french onion soup and a vegetable risotto here and if I'm honest - I underuse the place. It's always busy and I really should be going back there.
The friendly folks here keep my diet well-balanced with their green smoothies but I also love their salad bar out front that has all sorts and changes daily. You can also get David Brown's legendary "Saturday ham" in their sandwiches and salads and also his salt beef on occasions
I particularly like Roly Smokes of the takeaway options at the harbour: he used to be at the Old Kent Market in Margate but moved to this Whitstable pitch about 18 months ago now. Has done some competition BBQing in his time and typically has smoked lamb, pork belly as well as tumescent German sausages from the excellent Sausage Man in Lewisham. I particularly like his chicken thighs with celeriac slaw in a bap.
To add more detail:
Rulu's: Ruth and Lucy used to frequent the Deli when Dave Brown ran it, and now they've taken it over.
Land and Sea: A lovely open-plan kitchen here for this lunch/dinner/deli. A brief visit means I really need to go back
Sooshi
Pubs/Bars
Becca and Libby have brought craft beer and gin to Whitstable in spades. Spratwaffler Pale Ale from the excellent Time and Tide Brewery in Deal is the house beer and it's a belter. You won't find a Peroni or a Fosters, refreshingly. There is a dangerous array of constantly-changing beers from around the country and occasionally overseas on the - yes, you've guessed it - 12 taps. They also have an equally frequently changing selection of gins. They've also hosted tap takeovers from none other than London's Kernel Brewery and more recently Buxton Brewery and Omnipollo of Sweden. Importantly, the great staff here really give a shit about their business and customers and are into what they sell - and it shows.
The Ship
I call this a "locals' pub" to visitors but that's unfair as locals' pub usually conjures up imagery of the pool balls screeching to a halt, music stopping and everyone turning round to eye you up and down as you walk in: which couldn't be further from the truth. Unfailingly friendly service, immaculately clean and three German beers are usually on tap as well as four ales on draught. All this and schnitzel-in-a-bap, fish finger sandwiches and German sausages. Good for watching the sport, if that's your thing.
The Neptune
All I need to say is that it's a pub on the beach and this should be enough to sell it to you. Good fires in winter. Oh, and a jukebox and live music, too. Heaving in summer, as you might imagine.
I call this a "locals' pub" to visitors but that's unfair as locals' pub usually conjures up imagery of the pool balls screeching to a halt, music stopping and everyone turning round to eye you up and down as you walk in: which couldn't be further from the truth. Unfailingly friendly service, immaculately clean and three German beers are usually on tap as well as four ales on draught. All this and schnitzel-in-a-bap, fish finger sandwiches and German sausages. Good for watching the sport, if that's your thing.
Tucked away in the back streets is the Fountain, run by Roy Johnson, bringing the same welcome and laid back vibes that he brought to the New Inn when he was landlord there. Always good music on and always something interesting on tap and seats out the front in summer - and burgers on at the weekends.
The Neptune
All I need to say is that it's a pub on the beach and this should be enough to sell it to you. Good fires in winter. Oh, and a jukebox and live music, too. Heaving in summer, as you might imagine.
To add more detail:
The Coach and Horses
Porto Wine Bar
Other Stuff
Fish and Chips: Well of course you want some when you're by the sea. VC Jones is where the queues form - of course they do, they cook all their stuff in beef dripping, but hat-tip to Ossie's on the High Street that I know is popular with locals - a friendly welcome here and they often give you a little portion of free chips if you're due a wait. I also like The Fishwife up at the Harbour Market.
Bread: Whitstable is blessed at two ends of the scale of bakers: the very modern ever-growing sourdough bakery at Grain and Hearth and as old-school-as-you-can-get at Hubbard's, but they both have one thing in common: they tend to sell out every day.
Ice Cream: Dolce in Tankerton about 3/4 of a mile up the road are doing some good gelato and there's a Gelateria tucked away on Sea Street next to the DFL money-pit goldfish bowl £1m properties. For an old fashioned Mr Whippy there is a delightful older couple that own a (legally-parked) ice cream van in the Harbour overlooking the seafront.
Sunday Roast: Several places I've mentioned already do a well-priced roast. Step forward Cafe and Kitchen and The Rock Lodge and Georgia at the Umbrella Centre does excellent roasts on winter Sundays. Also, Pearsons - if you can get in - do a good one, too at a slightly more premium price.
Smoky Things: The Native Smokehouse, based in Chris Coates' back garden in Sydenham Street and also the Tankerton Smokeshed are smoking their own salmon on-site. Chris also used to do bacon and has been known to smoke some cheddar, too.
Booze: A friend with much greater wine knowledge than me liked the look of some of the boozes at The Offy, and I like the ever-changing selection of craft beers they stock.
Fresh Fish: If you want fresh fish that's just been landed from a boat that night, then join the queue at around 8.45am every Saturday in the Harbour for Millennium Fisheries' catch. Plaice, huss, skate and cod often there to take home and work your wonders. Fish isn't guaranteed every week but he has a sign on his hut (a few doors down from West Whelks) normally if it isn't going to happen, a highlight once being "No fish this week due to shit fishing".
Chinese Takeaway: Based on a few visits and the fact that pretty much everyone says this place when asked "where's the best chinese takeaway in Whitstable?": China Chef in Tankerton is the go-to. In fact I've not had a better chinese take-away anywhere else. I particularly love the "thin-gauge" noodles they use for their chow mein, their crab claws bursting with minced prawn, Pei Pa Tofu with prawns and a maybe not entirely authentic bang bang chicken that is nonetheless a delight. Here's a photo of when I had a takeaway on the beach cos I'm like well edgy.
Just A Short Hop Away
If you feel like spreading your wings, my favourite places nearby, in no particular order are below and can be reached within half an hour or so by train plus foot or where necessary, car.
The Goods Shed, Canterbury: A temple to the seasons. Fruit, veg, fish, meat, cheese, booze, restaurants. Murray's Stores has all manner of imported and local items, the restaurant on the mezzanine level takes all its produce from the shed itself and cooks it immaculately - and has been doing some excellent heat-up-at-home meals during lockdown. Wild Goose on the left as you walk in has some excellent small plates. There's also a superb widely-stocked butcher with cuts from many different fields, barns and coops nearby and similarly the fishmonger's display is always brimming. Did I mention the cheese shop, the wine shop and the Italian bakery?
Bottega Caruso, Margate: Magnificent Italian home cooking including homemade pasta, the very warmest of welcomes from Simona, Harry and the gang and some of the best jarred tomatoes you'll get your hands on from their farm in Campania amongst other imported delights (I particularly like their funky pancetta). It's like you're eating in someone's home rather than a restaurant such is the warmth. If you want to know more details and in much more style, a friend wrote about it here - and Grace Dent followed suit in the Guardian recently.
Angela's, Margate: Always a warm welcome and unfussy, fabulous cooking from Rob Cooper that shows off sparklingly good fish and shellfish. If it doesn't get a Bib Gourmand at some point then Michelin obviously haven't visited. The sort of place you'd want at every seaside resort and the glowing review in a national newspaper in 2019 attests to this. It's permanently busy, but don't fret - they also have a seafood bar in Margate, Dory's, such is the success of the restaurant. It's literally round the corner from Angela's.
The Fordwich Arms, Fordwich (nr. Canterbury): Fabulous cooking in a stunning 1930s building with lovely staff that is rightly attracting interest from Londoners and restaurant reviewers. It seems to be getting better by the day. East Kent's very own Marina O'Loughlin has said she's not been as excited about an opening round these parts since the Sportsman opened in 1999. The recent Michelin star came as little surprise and although I've not been recently, judging from the food I've seen on Instagram, I can't imagine a second is far away. If they've got the pheasant dumplings in a smoky broth then crack on - one of the very best dishes I've had in Kent.
The Bridge Arms, Bridge (nr. Canterbury): Basically: see above. Opened in April 2021, the Fordwich crew give their second property the Fordwich treatment: immaculate food, great staff, hello second Michelin star at some point in the future.
The Table, Broadstairs: Joe Hill cheffed around London and more recently at Wyatt and Jones in Broadstairs and his small but perfectly formed new opened has got some dazzlingly good plates going and no doubt will be attracting the attention of food writers from all over. Glazed salmon with fried sushi rice and onion dashi, you say? Yes, that sort of thing.
A Casa Mia, Herne Bay: As good as any of the best pizzas you'll have in London, I reckon. Their margherita with all "DOP" top-end ingredients is stellar. You're always well looked-after by Gennaro, his wife and their all-Italian staff.
A Casa Mia, Herne Bay: As good as any of the best pizzas you'll have in London, I reckon. Their margherita with all "DOP" top-end ingredients is stellar. You're always well looked-after by Gennaro, his wife and their all-Italian staff.